HYPER-GLOWING SKIN: JAMES MOLLOY’S 50/50 BRUSH WISHLIST

With the MYKITCO 50/50 Sale just around the corner, Episode 38 of MAKEUP LIVE was all about creating gorgeous, hyper-glowing skin and discovering the brushes James Molloy would add to his wishlist. Joined by the gorgeous Clara, James created a radiant, lit-from-within complexion, layering liquids, creams and carefully placed powder to achieve skin that looked hydrated, luminous and beautifully polished.

As James explained during the episode, “If you’re winning in complexion as a makeup artist, you’re winning as an artist.” Throughout the live, James shared his approach to mastering complexion, the importance of choosing the right tools and the six MYKITCO brushes he recommends adding to your basket ahead of the biggest brush sale of the year.

GREAT SKIN STARTS WITH PREP

Creating hyper-glowing skin begins long before foundation. James started by preparing Clara’s complexion with Medicube Triple Collagen Toner, a hydrating, slightly thicker toner designed to smooth and plump the skin. Having lived in Asia for five years, James spoke about his appreciation for Korean skincare and its focus on creating a cushioned, pillowy complexion. He followed with Bobbi Brown Vitamin Enriched Face Base, a long-standing staple in his professional kit. The key is to hydrate the skin without overloading it, as using a moisturiser that’s too rich can make it difficult to control shine later, particularly when working with multiple luminous products.

Throughout the application, James worked from his MY ON HAND PALETTE, designed to give makeup artists a practical workspace for mixing products, resting brushes and keeping everything within reach. Featuring ergonomic finger dents and a detachable section with a built-in brush cleaner, it’s a tool designed to make working on set or with clients easier.

BUILD YOUR GLOW INTO THE SKIN

Rather than applying highlighter as a final step, James prefers to build luminosity underneath the foundation. Using KIKO Milano Glow Up, a liquid highlighter suitable for the face and body, he applied a generous amount across the high points of Clara’s face, including the cheekbones, forehead, nose and chin, before extending the product down the neck and across the body to create a seamless, top-to-toe glow.

For this technique, James reached for the 117 – MY FLAWLESS COMPLEXION, one of the first brushes on his 50/50 wishlist. Describing it as his “Goldilocks brush”, James explained how its versatile fibres adapt depending on the pressure applied. With a little pressure, the brush takes on an almost sponge-like shape, making it perfect for stippling liquids and creams into the skin, while the tip can be used for more precise placement. The result is a seamless, diffused application that allows the glow to become part of the complexion rather than sitting on top.

Next, James layered Charlotte Tilbury Hollywood Flawless Filter in shade 5.5 over the skin using the flat side of MY ‘ON POINT’ BLENDER. Rather than relying on this product for coverage, James used it to create a smooth, even texture while allowing the luminosity underneath to shine through. He also explained the importance of extending the same finish across the neck and chest, ensuring that whatever texture you create on the face continues onto the body.

COVERAGE ONLY WHERE YOU NEED IT

Once the glow was established, James moved on to adding coverage only where necessary. Using Tower 28 Swipe Serum Concealer, he brightened and perfected specific areas of the complexion without compromising the natural, radiant finish. His brush of choice was the 700 – MY CONCEAL & BUFF, a dual-ended complexion brush designed to perform two completely different functions.

The ultra-thin, flexible end allows you to paint concealer precisely into smaller areas, including the inner corners of the eyes, around the nostrils and underneath the brow, while the opposite end features soft, fluffy fibres that seamlessly buff the product into the surrounding skin. James explained that when designing dual-ended brushes, he believes each end should serve a genuinely different purpose rather than simply offering two sizes of the same shape.

James’s advice was to use the fine end of the 700 to place concealer exactly where coverage is needed, then switch to the fluffy end to blend. This gives you greater control without building unnecessary product across the entire face. And his recommendation for the 50/50 Sale? “Just get two. Once you start using it, you’ll wonder what you ever did without it.”

SCULPT WITH A PRIMED BRUSH

To introduce warmth and structure, James reached for Makeup by Mario SoftSculpt Shaping Stick in Dark, applying a small amount to sculpt Clara’s cheekbones and the perimeter of her face. For this, he used the 107 – MY FLAWLESS FOUNDATION, one of MYKITCO’s original brushes. Designed to recreate the finish of a makeup sponge, the 107 features densely packed fibres arranged at a slight angle, allowing artists to stipple cream products seamlessly into the skin.

James demonstrated one of his most important complexion techniques: priming your brush. Before applying the contour directly to Clara’s face, he worked the product into the brush fibres using his palette. This ensures the product is evenly distributed throughout the brush rather than sitting heavily on the surface, creating a softer, more controlled application that’s less likely to leave patches.

KNOW WHERE TO GLOW AND WHERE TO MATTIFY

Creating hyper-glowing skin isn’t about making every part of the face shiny. The secret is understanding where to preserve luminosity and where to introduce a soft, diffused matte finish. James introduced the 143 – MY SOFT POWDER BRUSH, another essential addition to his 50/50 wishlist. Designed with lightweight, flexible fibres and a softly rounded tip, the 143 allows artists to diffuse product without overwhelming the skin.

James first demonstrated its versatility by applying Charlotte Tilbury Beauty Light Wand in Pinkgasm, lightly polishing the liquid blush across Clara’s cheeks. For this particular complexion, he wanted the blush to feel wrapped around the skin rather than sitting visibly on top. He then used the same brush with Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder, selectively mattifying between the eyebrows, underneath the eyes, around the nasolabial folds and lightly along the jawline.

By setting these areas, James maintained the overall radiance while ensuring the complexion would photograph beautifully. He explained the importance of turning your model’s face towards the light before powdering, allowing you to identify exactly where shine needs controlling.

SOFT EYES, DEFINED BROWS AND GLAZED LIPS

With the complexion complete, James kept the remaining makeup soft and effortless, allowing the skin to remain the focus. For Clara’s brows, he introduced Browaid Brow Blueprint, a dual-ended brow pen designed to recreate natural hair-like strokes. One end features multiple fine fibres to build soft definition, while the opposite end has two delicate prongs for creating more precise individual hairs. James explained how products like this can restore natural-looking texture to brows that have become too heavily filled with powder or pomade. For any small corrections, he reached for MY SMALL ‘ON POINT’ BUDS, an essential tool for refining fine details without disturbing the surrounding makeup.

Rather than creating a dramatic eye, James wanted a subtle wash of colour that complemented the complexion. Using ILIA Liquid Powder Chromatic Eye Tint in Fresco, a cool pewter-bronze shade, he applied a soft glaze of colour across Clara’s eyelids with the 224 – MY SOFT BLENDER, one of his most frequently used eye brushes. Its soft, fluffy fibres allow cream and liquid eye products to blend effortlessly, creating a diffused finish without harsh edges. The result was a beautifully understated eye that added dimension while keeping the attention on Clara’s glowing skin.

To complete the look, James applied Fenty Beauty Gloss Bomb in shade 03 using the 501 – MY PERFECT LIP BRUSH. The aim was to create a plump, juicy, glazed lip that reflected the same luminous texture as the skin. James explained how the 501 was designed to make precise lip application easier, giving artists greater control over shape and definition. Rather than relying on a traditional pointed lip brush, he wanted a tool that genuinely helped artists perfect their application. The finished lip was soft, polished and beautifully wearable, making it particularly suited to bridal and natural-glam makeup.

THE FINAL FINISHING TOUCHES

Before completing the look, James returned to the complexion for a final round of refining. Using MAC Cream Colour Base in Hush, he pressed a little additional luminosity onto the high points of Clara’s face with his fingertips. He even added a touch to the ears, explaining how these small details become particularly important when photographing beauty looks with the hair pulled back.

Next, he reached for MY PRECISION PUFF, made using Japanese velvet, alongside Huda Beauty Easy Bake Pressed Powder in Pound Cake. The lightweight velvet texture allows powder to be pressed gently into the skin, creating a smooth, blurred finish.

By combining luminous creams, soft powder and targeted brightening, James created a complexion with multiple dimensions of light. The result was hyper-glowing skin that still looked beautifully controlled, polished and camera-ready.

BUILD YOUR 50/50 WISHLIST

With the MYKITCO 50/50 Sale just around the corner, James shared the six brushes he would recommend adding to your wishlist. Whether you’re building your first professional kit or adding to an existing collection, these are the brushes James reaches for time and time again.

THE MYKITCO 50/50 SALE

FRIDAY 30TH OCTOBER | 5PM UK TIME

50% OFF ALL INDIVIDUAL BRUSHES FOR 50 MINUTES ONLY.

With some of MYKITCO’s most-loved brushes selling out quickly, James recommends preparing your wishlist in advance and getting there early. Join James and the MYKITCO team live across our social platforms throughout the sale.

WATCH THE FULL EPISODE OF MAKEUP LIVE WITH JAMES MOLLOY ON YOUTUBE.

FULL PRODUCT BREAKDOWN

Episode 38: Hyper-glowing skin

HYPER-GLOWING SKIN: JAMES MOLLOY’S 50/50 BRUSH WISHLIST

GREAT SKIN STARTS WITH PREP

BUILD YOUR GLOW INTO THE SKIN

COVERAGE ONLY WHERE YOU NEED IT

SCULPT WITH A PRIMED BRUSH

KNOW WHERE TO GLOW AND WHERE TO MATTIFY

SOFT EYES, DEFINED BROWS AND GLAZED LIPS

THE FINAL FINISHING TOUCHES

BUILD YOUR 50/50 WISHLIST

FULL PRODUCT BREAKDOWN

MYKITCO BRUSHES

MYKITCO TOOLS

SKIN PREPARATION

COMPLEXION & HIGHLIGHT

POWDER

BROWS

EYES

LIPS

ADDITIONAL PRODUCTS MENTIONED

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